A Month In Kavala Greece

A story about exploring Kavala, Greece, and living like locals by the sea.

The next stop on our adventure was the port town of Kavala in Northern Greece, about midway between Thessaloniki and Turkey.

We departed Thessaloniki on the midday bus. The ride was very scenic as we passed lakes and traveled through wine and olive-growing areas. The bus also stopped at some charming beachside villages along the way, which we bookmarked for future holidays.

We arrived in Kavala mid-afternoon and set off to find our apartment. Kavala is set on the side of a very steep mountain, with only one flat road that runs along the waterfront. The hike to our apartment, about a kilometer up the mountain with full packs, was grueling. It was boiling hot, and the trek involved a combination of steep roads and even steeper, uneven staircases. Finally, we arrived, hot and exhausted. The apartment was fine— a little shabby and not as clean as it could have been, but it was comfortable, had excellent air conditioning, and was north-facing, so it received little direct sunlight. It was suitable for the month we stayed there.

I liked Kavala very much, and after a week or so, we got used to the steep roads and stairs. The weather was very hot the entire time we were there, so most mornings found us at the beach, swimming with the locals. On the way to the beach, we would stop for coffee and then head off for our swim. On the way back, we would pick up some groceries before retreating from the afternoon heat in our apartment.

We also discovered a wonderful restaurant, Psaraki, set out on the pier in the marina. We ate there several times, and the food was delicious—as was the rosé. That area of Greece produces excellent wines.

Kavala is an old Roman town, so one day, when it was a bit cooler (33°C instead of 38°C), we ventured up the hill to the old town, fort, and the very impressive Roman aqueduct. Along the way, we stopped for a cool drink at a tiny café with amazing views across the harbor to the bay. Afterward, we headed to our favorite restaurant for lunch.

In Kavala, we were able to work on some projects that we had both been wanting to tackle for a long time. It was very nice to finally have the time to do things we had been putting off.

We enjoyed our time in Kavala immensely, and it only confirmed how much I love Greece. Kavala was very low-key, with mostly local tourism and hardly any English speakers. It truly felt like living locally, which is our preferred way to travel.

After a month in lovely Kavala, it was time to move on. We were heading back to North Macedonia, this time to the town of Ohrid, which is not the easiest place to reach. It would involve multiple buses, a border crossing, and a night in Skopje.

See how that journey went in my next story from the lakeside town of Ohrid.

Kavala History

Kavala, a picturesque port city in Northern Greece, boasts a rich and diverse history that stretches back to antiquity. Originally founded in the 7th century BC by settlers from Thasos, the city was first known as Neapolis, meaning “new city.” Due to its strategic location along the Aegean Sea, Kavala quickly became a significant trading hub, connecting the region to various Mediterranean civilizations.

Under Roman rule, Kavala thrived, becoming an important center for commerce and transportation. The construction of the Via Egnatia, a major Roman road, further enhanced the city’s importance, linking it to other key cities in the empire. Kavala’s most iconic structure, the Roman aqueduct known as the Kamares, was built during this period to supply water to the growing city.

In the Byzantine era, the city, renamed Christoupolis, served as a crucial fortress. It endured several invasions and was ultimately conquered by the Ottoman Empire in the 14th century. During Ottoman rule, Kavala became a center for tobacco production, a legacy that shaped its economy well into the 20th century.

Today, Kavala is known for its well-preserved historical sites, vibrant culture, and stunning waterfront, reflecting its long and storied past.