Bangkok Thailand

Bangkok always holds a special place in our hearts, especially for its vibrant food scene. On this visit, we were eager to revisit Aquatini, our favorite riverside restaurant known for its exquisite Pla Kapong Lui Suan—deep-fried sea bass with chili and lime sauce. This dish had enchanted us during our last trip, and we were thrilled to experience it again.

However, upon arrival, we were met with an unwelcome surprise. The restaurant was undergoing extensive renovations, and much of the floor, including the riverfront area we loved, was cordoned off. While we understood that renovations were necessary, it was disheartening to lose the picturesque riverside setting where we had previously enjoyed cool Singha beers and the scenic views of the Chao Phraya River.

Despite this setback, we decided to stay and enjoy our meal, though our experience quickly turned sour. Service was sluggish; our drinks arrived late and incorrect, requiring multiple requests to get what we ordered. The real letdown came with our much-anticipated Pla Kapong Lui Suan. When it finally arrived, it was dry and fatty, suggesting it had been pre-cooked and merely reheated. The sauce lacked the vibrant chili kick we remembered and seemed toned down for a Western palate. Our once-favorite dish was disappointingly bland and far from the delightful experience we had previously enjoyed.

The restaurant’s troubles didn’t end there. When we expressed our disappointment, the staff insisted we must have ordered something different last time, despite us having written down the name of the dish. To top off the night, our bill included several items we hadn’t ordered. We left Aquatini with a mix of confusion and dismay, wondering what had gone wrong at a place that was once a gem.

With our previous favorite now off our list, we found ourselves searching for good Thai food in the Phra Athit/Khao San area. Our search led us to Hemlock, a charming restaurant further up Phra Athit Road. This delightful find quickly won us over with its exceptional dishes. We savored a stellar banana flower salad, tender pork ribs, and a truly remarkable papaya salad. Most importantly, we rediscovered Pla Kapong Lui Suan prepared to perfection—crispy and flavorful with just the right amount of chili. Hemlock also offered a decent glass of red wine at reasonable prices, making it a superb alternative to Aquatini.

In the end, Hemlock proved to be a fantastic discovery. It not only matched but arguably surpassed our previous favorite in terms of both quality and value. The service was attentive, and the food was exemplary, restoring our faith in Bangkok’s culinary scene.